At 1:00 am, there were hundreds of people at the temple. Stalls along the walkways hawked daruma dolls, wooden arrows, and all sorts of good luck charms. Food sellers were doing a brisk business with fried noodles, “baby custard” doughnuts, and warm sake.
It seemed as if all the residents of Sugamo had turned out at Togenuki-jizo temple to ring in the new year with a coin in the donation box and a prayer for a successful year ahead. I did the same, offering up wishes for good health and a good year.
My prayers made, I turned away from the temple and headed for the main attraction at Togenuki-jizo, a meter tall Jizo statue that’s said to cure illnesses.
Tod, Brendan and I stood in line to have a chance to visit Jizo. When I reached the head of the queue, I tossed some coins into the box, picked up a washcloth and a dipper of water then gave Jizo a bath.
I poured water on the head, hands, and shoulders of the statue hoping for good health in all those parts. I gave Jizo an extra splash on the nose for Susan, Brendan’s wife who was at home with the kids (and a head cold). Then I used the washcloth to pat Jizo dry.
As the next people in line began to bathe Jizo, we left to buy a wooden arrow to bring us luck this year, then headed home on the one night of the year that trains run all night.
Happy 21st century. Akemashite omedetou gozaimasu.
