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Shellfish
When ordering a dish with shellfish in Japan, be prepapred to see the shells and to participate in the removal of meat from animal. Last night at dinner in an Italian restaurant, we ordered a crab and tomato pasta. The presentation was lovely–liguine piled on a plate and topped with a half a crab shell.…
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3:00 am
3:00 am. The strains of “La Cucaracha” invade my dream…and grow louder. The song is so loud I suddenly realise it is not part of my dream. I look out the window in time to see three motorcycles, tricked out with the glow of blue and violet neon and a sound system loud enough to…
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The weather is cooling,
The weather is cooling, finally. For the last two days I’ve had the aircon off and all the windows open. We get a nice breeze through the house and the fresh air enhances the grassy scent of our tatami floors. But I’d forgotten how noisy our street is–particularly at 5 am when delivery trucks start…
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We’ve found a new
We’ve found a new place to live. It took almost three months to find a suitable replacement for the wonderful house we live in now, but we will be out of the current house before the deadline the owner imposed. He’s selling, so we’re moving. The new house is built in the crook of a…
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Hiroshima reader
“Kristen, guess what,” a friend from Perot Systems started. “We were on a little island near Hiroshima this weekend, and I saw someone reading one of your articles in Tokyo Classified.” It’s neat to find out that my work is being read. When people ask me what I do, I tell them I’m a writer.…
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Sirens tore down our
Sirens tore down our street, then stopped before they receded into the distance. I peeked through the curtains, but coudn’t see where they had halted. But I did see many of our neighbors heading in the direction the trucks had gone. Seven giant firetrucks were parked on the street, a hose trailing over the ground…
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Autumn fruits are appearing
Autumn fruits are appearing on the market shelves. That means nashi, among others. Nashi is very crisp. The skin snaps when you bite into it, and its white flesh yields in juicy, grainy bits. It is flavored like a pear but shaped like an apple. Its color is brownish-gold, a quintessential fall shade. It ranks…
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The mid-September moon draws
The mid-September moon draws people out for annual moon viewing parties. I suppose this harks back to agricultural traditions, when the nation’s rice was harvested by hand and farmers had to work late into the night to get the harvest in before the typhoon rains started. Now the moon viewing parties mainly mean lots of…
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Mikoshi
Mikoshi are portable shrines set on poles. Once or twice a year, Shinto shrines bring out their mikoshi and parade them through the streets. Dozens of men carry the heavy wooden beams that support the small, ornately decorated shrines. The bearers wear short coats and white shorts. They bind their heads with towels or scarves…
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Maps
You cannot live in Tokyo without a map. Tokyo addresses are organized in descending order by To, Ku, neighborhood, Chome, block and finally building number. For example, here is the address of the Diet: Tokyo-to Chiyoda-ku, Nagatacho 1-7-1 If you have an address and a map, you can find any place in the city. If…
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